How to Use a Non-Inoculated Mushroom Grow Bag: Step-by-Step Guide
Non-inoculated mushroom grow bags are a great way to start cultivating mushrooms from scratch. These bags contain sterilized or pasteurized substrate, ready for inoculation with spores, liquid culture, or agar wedges. Follow these steps carefully to maximize your success.
What You’ll Need
- Non-inoculated mushroom grow bag (sterilized or pasteurized)
- Mushroom spores, liquid culture, or agar wedge
- Sterile syringe and needle (for liquid culture or spore solution)
- Sterile swabs (optional, for agar work)
- Gloves and face mask
- Alcohol or disinfectant
- Pop-up humidity tent or clean grow space
- Spray bottle for misting
Step 1: Prepare Your Work Area
- Choose a clean, draft-free area to work in.
- Disinfect your hands, gloves, tools, and workspace with alcohol or a suitable sanitizer.
- Avoid touching anything non-sterile during the inoculation process.
Tip: A small still air box (SAB) can help reduce contamination during inoculation.
Step 2: Prepare the Bag
- Inspect the bag to ensure the substrate is fully intact and undamaged.
- If using a bag with a self-healing injection port, wipe the port with alcohol before inoculation.
- If the bag does not have a port, you may need to carefully make a small sterile opening for inoculation.
Step 3: Inoculation
Using Liquid Culture or Spore Syringe:
- Sterilize your needle with alcohol or a flame.
- Insert the needle into the bag’s injection port or sterile opening.
- Inject the culture at several evenly spaced points throughout the substrate (usually 3–5 locations per bag).
- Wipe the injection site with alcohol if needed and reseal the bag.
Using Agar Wedge:
- Sterilize your tools and hands.
- Cut a small wedge from a fully colonized agar plate.
- Insert the wedge gently into the substrate at multiple locations.
- Seal the bag immediately to maintain sterility.
Step 4: Colonization
- Place the bag in a dark, warm location suitable for your mushroom species (typically 70–75°F / 21–24°C).
- Keep the bag sealed to maintain moisture and prevent contamination.
- White mycelium will begin to spread through the substrate, usually taking 7–21 days, depending on species and conditions.
- Check daily for contamination—discard any bag that shows green, black, or fuzzy molds that aren’t white mycelium.
Step 5: Initiating Fruiting
Once the substrate is fully colonized:
- Cut slits or openings in the bag to allow mushrooms to emerge.
- Move the bag to a humidity-controlled fruiting area or tent.
- Maintain high humidity (85–95%) and provide indirect light.
- Ensure moderate fresh air exchange to prevent CO₂ buildup.
Tip: Different mushroom species may have slightly different temperature and humidity preferences—check the ideal ranges.
Step 6: Care During Fruiting
- Mist the substrate 2–3 times daily to maintain moisture.
- Gently fan the bag once or twice a day for fresh air.
- Monitor for contamination and remove any abnormal growth promptly.
Step 7: Harvesting
- Harvest mushrooms just before caps flatten completely for best flavor and texture.
- Use clean hands or sterile scissors to cut at the base.
- Multiple flushes are possible—continue misting and maintaining humidity to encourage second or third flushes.
Step 8: Post-Harvest Care
- Store fresh mushrooms in the refrigerator for up to 5–7 days.
- Dry or freeze excess harvests for longer storage.
- Compost the spent substrate or use it as a garden amendment after the final flush.
Tips for Success
- Always work cleanly—contamination is the most common cause of failure.
- Be patient—colonization and fruiting take time.
- Adjust temperature, humidity, and light according to the mushroom species.
- Track your process for future improvements.
This guide works for Pink Oysters, Wine Caps, Pioppinos, and most gourmet mushroom species. Starting with a non-inoculated bag gives you complete control over genetics and allows you to experiment with different mushroom varieties.
